There is no shortage of charming neighborhoods in Tokyo but Yanesen stands out with its quaint atmosphere, shitamachi vibe and bohemian culture.

Forget skyscrapers, *salarymen *(office workers), neon lights and round-the-clock karaoke. The narrow alleyways in this eastern Tokyo neighborhood are filled with ancient temples and shrines, low-rise wooden houses, hidden culinary gems and artisanal handiwork shops. Yanesen is brimming with local flair and welcoming cat-loving residents. If you’re looking for a relaxing stroll in a quiet yet atmospheric part of the city, then Yanesen is the place to be.

• The History of Yanesen
• What to Do in Yanesen
• Where to Shop in Yanesen
• Where to Eat in Yanesen
• Getting There

The History of Yanesen

[

](https://cdn.savvytokyo.com/app/uploads/2017/11/pixta_58736723_M.jpg)Yanesen is the collective name for the Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi neighborhoods

Yanesen, located east of Ueno Park in Taito and Bunkyo wards, is the collective name for the Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi neighborhoods. Yanaka used to be a farm village specializing in Yanaka ginger. Due to its proximity to bustling commercial Ueno, several temples were built or relocated to this area.

Sansakizaka, the area’s main street, is where you will find more temples than houses. Spared from powerful earthquakes and World War II air raids, Yanesen neighborhoods have not changed much. They are still characterized by that traditional Japanese townscape, an ambiance of Edo-period Tokyo and a slower pace of life.

What to Do in Yanesen

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](https://cdn.savvytokyo.com/app/uploads/2017/11/pixta_41398759_M.jpg)Nezu Shrine

With an abundance of temples, Yanesen definitely earns its name as a temple town (teramachi). Stumble upon some of the 100-plus temples in the Yanesen area, with 73 in Yanaka alone. Or, simply wander the residential alleys, where the streets are crowded with tightly packed homes. 

Tennoji 

This 13th-century Tendai temple has flawless green grounds, ancient trees and a large bronze Buddha statue. Savor the silence and avoid the crowds at this off-the-beaten path location in Tokyo. 

• Address: 7-14-8 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo  (Map)

• Opening Hours: 24 hours

• Website: Official Link

Kannonji

Kannonji is one of the settings in the story of the 47 ronin (masterless samurai), which inspired the Keanu Reeves’ film of the same name. It’s also famous for its tsujibei (roofed mud and clay tile wall), believed to be Tokyo’s only surviving structure of its kind. 

• Address: 5-8-28 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo  (Map)

• Opening Hours: 24 hours

• Website: Official Link

Nezu Shrine

This is one of the oldest and most beautiful shrines in Tokyo. It features a miniature version of a torii tunnel, similar to that of Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto. Nezu Shrine comes alive in spring for the Bunkyo Azalea Festival when its huge azalea bushes bloom. 

• Address: 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo City, Tokyo  (Map)

• Opening Hours: 24 hours

• Website: Official Link

Yushima Tenjin Shrine

This picturesque location, best known for its large ume (Japanese plum) garden, is also where students pray for good exam results. It’s also known for its large bronze *ushi *(cow) * *statue, which claims to cure diseases if you rub it. 

• Address: 3-30-1 Yushima, Bunkyo City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 24 hours

• Website: Official Link

Yanaka Himalayan Cedar Tree

Towering over an old shop and neighboring temple, this ancient Himalayan cedar boasts an interesting history. In 2012, the tree was scheduled to be cut down but a local action committee in Yanesen prevented this. Residents believe it represents the nostalgic atmosphere and rich history of the Tokyo neighborhood. 

• Address: 1-6-15 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 24 hours

• Website: Official Link

Where to Shop in Yanesen

[

](https://cdn.savvytokyo.com/app/uploads/2017/11/pixta_58736709_M.jpg)Yanaka Ginza shopping street is the best place to shop for local crafts

The easiest place to start exploring is the old Yanaka Ginza shopping street, a short walk from Nippori station. As you leave the station, you’ll pass Yanaka Cemetery, the final resting place of historical figures like Yoshinobu, the final Tokugawa shogun. Although eerie, the cemetery is particularly picturesque in spring because of the cherry trees along Sakuradori Street. 

[

](https://cdn.savvytokyo.com/app/uploads/2017/11/pixta_130607793_M.jpg)Sakuradori Street

Past Scai The Bathhouse, a public bathhouse turned modern art gallery, you’ll come to a broad staircase leading to Yanaka Ginza, where visitors can find crafts, food and souvenirs. You’ll notice a feline motif throughout, particularly Sen-chan, the area’s official mascot. 

• Address: 3-13-1 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo  (Map)

• Opening Hours: shop hours may vary

• Website: Official Link

Where to Eat in Yanesen

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](https://cdn.savvytokyo.com/app/uploads/2017/11/pixta_133875044_M.jpg)© Photo by PIXTA/ chigasaki7

Tayori

This tiny but popular restaurant and delicatessen is located on a narrow alley off Yanaka Ginza.* Tayori* means letter in Japanese and the owners hope that customers and food producers make a connection here, not dissimilar to the exchanging of letters. 

• Address: 3-12-4 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 12 p.m. – 8 p.m. (Wednesdays to Saturdays); 11 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Sundays); closed on Mondays and Tuesdays

• Website: Official Link

Yanaka Kenshindo

For traditional Japanese sweets and green tea, try Yanaka Kenshindo. It’s located a short walk from Nippori Station. Relax with a hot brew and watch the shoppers go by on Yanaka Ginza in this old-school café.

• Address: Yanaka 3-11-15 2F, Taito City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 11 a.m. – 7 p.m. (Mondays to Fridays)

• Website: Official Link

Waguriya

If you cannot get enough of chestnuts, then Waguriya, located inside Yanaka Ginza, might be just up your alley. They sell seasonal treats and delicious Mont-Blanc in their in-house café.

• Address: 1A Sakana Kame Heights, 3-9-14, Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 11 a.m – 5:30 p.m.; closed on Mondays (shop hours may vary)

• Website: Official Link

Yanaka Coffee

This Yanesen institution serves an amazing cup of java. Although there are many Yanaka Coffees across Tokyo now, this is the original. Wait while they roast in-house. They offer thirty types from fifteen countries.

• Address:  3-8-6 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. (every day)

• Website: Official Link

Kayaba Coffee

This family-run coffee shop opened in 1938 and became a hub for the local arts community. It’s truly a legacy kissaten (traditional coffee shop) worth visiting. Please try their egg sandwich and Russian (a blend of cocoa and coffee). 

• Address: 6-1-29 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Tuesdays to Sundays, closed on Mondays)

• Website: Official Link

Petticoat Lane

For a quaint and quirky café with French flair, don’t miss Petticoat Lane. It’s the perfect spot to cozy up with a cup of coffee and dessert. Although small, it boasts heaps of atmosphere. Also, try their popular* kare raisu* (curry rice).

• Address:  2-35-7 Sendagi, Bunkyo City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 11:30 a.m. – 11 p.m. (Tuesdays to Saturdays); 11:30 a.m – 6 p.m. (Sundays and Mondays)

• Website: Official Link

Hantei

A classic shitamachi (old-time downtown area) institution, it serves mouthwatering kushiage (skewered meat and vegetables). The Meiji-era building is a registered tangible cultural property which in itself is worth the visit. 

• Address: 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyo City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 11:30 a.m. – 3 p.m.; 5 p.m – 10 p.m. (Tuesdays to Sundays, closed on Mondays)

• Website: Official Link

Nezu Kamachiku

Located inside a former brick warehouse, this restaurant offers firm and chewy udon made onsite. Slurp on delicious noodles and sip curated sake while observing the changing seasons in the adjoining garden. 

• Address:  2-14-18 Nezu, Bunkyo City, Tokyo (Map)

• Opening Hours: 11:30 a.m – 2:30 p.m.; 5:30 p.m. – 9:30 p.m. (Mondays to Saturdays); 11:30 a.m – 2:30 p.m.; 5:30 p.m. – 8 p.m. (Sundays)

• Website: Official Link

Sobakokoro

This restaurant specializes in soba, buckwheat noodles made in-house daily. Expect to wait in line since it’s very popular among locals. Not sure what to order? Get the tempura set. The portions are large, so visit with an empty stomach!

• Address:  2-11-10 Nezu, Bunkyo City, Tokyo  (Map)

• Opening Hours: 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.; 5:30 p.m. – 9 p.m. (Tuesdays, Fridays to Mondays, closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays)

• Website: Official Link

Getting There

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](https://cdn.savvytokyo.com/app/uploads/2017/11/pixta_118347717_M.jpg)Hop on the Yamanote Line!

Take the Yamanote Line from Shinjuku or Shibuya station to Nippori station, or take the Chiyoda Line to Sendagi station, Nezu station and Nishi-Nippori station. You can also get off at Ueno station to access the neighborhood.

Want to explore more delightful Tokyo districts? Check out our guides to Machida and Kichijoji. Happy exploring!

This post was written by Nano Betts in 2017 and updated by Suzanne Bhagan in 2026.